They should be stored and installed in areas with a temperature range of 60° to 85° F and not more than 70% relative humidity. ■ Ceiling tiles should be removed from the cartons 24 hours before installation and allowed to adjust to normal interior conditions of the area where installation will take place.

1. Usg Ceilings
2. Installing Armstrong Ceiling Planks

While you must always adhere to packaging instructions, this article will provide basic advice on the general process of installing ceiling tiles, which includes not only choosing a style and size, but also using an adhesive, furring strips, and planning for obstructions.

Selecting Tile

The majority of ceiling tiles are comprised of fiberboard, which is more or less a blend of wood/cain fiber and various binding solutions.

While most tiles are 1-square foot, they are sold in other sizes. The most common technical design for ceiling tiles is a tongue and groove style. You can also get them in special surface textures and seamless designs. Many homeowners prefer specially manufactured tiles which deaden sound, called acoustical tiles.

A sales associate at your local home improvement store can help you choose the right tile for your project.

Applying Tiles

Generally, you will see either nail/staple-applied tiles or adhesive-applied tiles. Use adhesive on smooth ceiling surfaces and nails/staples on rough surfaces.

3 Basic Rules on Cutting

Only use cut tiles along the parameter. Opposite tiles, meaning those across the room from each other, should match. You should also never use less than 50% of a tile.

Determining the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance between the walls. If it comes out to an exact multiple of 12, there is no need for smaller border tiles. Otherwise, add 12 and divide by 2 to determine the width of the border tiles. Do so in both directions.

Applying Tile With Adhesive

You must get the surface ready for the adhesive, especially paint surfaces. Make sure that the surface can support tile by applying several tiles around the ceilings and examining how well they stay after several days.

Make lines with chalk string to align the border tiles. Shape the first border tile and and fit it to the corner. When cutting the tiles, make sure you work on a flat surface and that the tile is face-up.

Dab adhesive in all 4 corners of each tile, dab 1 in the middle. Put the tile into place so that the flange is exposed and you can align the tongue in grooves.

Sometimes, even the ideal smooth surface will require a staple for extra support. Once border tiles are placed, fill the ceiling with uncut tiles. Once all of the tiles are placed, add molding to create a clean look

Installing Tiles on Wood Furring Strips

Use furring strips on rough surfaces. Mark the location of ceiling joists and attach the furring strips from joist to joist at a right angle.

Installing the Furring Strips

Align the second strip so that it rests between at the center of the strip and the width of the border tile.

The rest of the furring strips must be installed so that they rest at a parallel angle to the second strip you have installed. They must also be spaced 12-inches on center. Affix the strip by applying 8-penny nails. Use a carpenter's level to ensure that everything is aligned properly. Use scraps for the edges to support border tile.

Stapling Tiles to Furring Strips

Make lines using chalk string down the center of the furring strips. Use the lines as a guide to install the tiles. For the initial cuts, remove the side that is devoid of a wide stapling brim. As before, set the tiles to that the tongue and groove tiles can be put together.

Begin by applying border tiles, then fill the space with full-size tiles. Once it's all filled, add the rest of the border tiles. Apply molding to make a nice, clean finish for your project.

Tilling Around Posts or Pipes

Refer to the images to see how to cut the tiles to fit around plumbing and other fixtures. All one must do is slice the tile in 2 and trim the halves to fit around the obstruction. Always cut the tile while it is face up with a utility knife.

Information in this article has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors.

Usg Ceilings

To create a classic country or cottage look in your home, consider adding a laminated plank ceiling that’s designed for a do-it-yourselfer to install. On any ceiling, planks are a definite attention getter, and on a less-than-perfect ceiling, they’re a good coverup, too.

If the plank ceiling will be going into your bath, look for planks designed to resist humidity.

Installing Armstrong Ceiling Planks

The interlocking tongue-and-groove planks can be installed in several ways, but in a bathroom, they’re attached to two crisscrossing layers of furring strips, creating adequate air space above the planks. The planks are held up with a series of metal clips, which are slipped into the edges of the plank and screwed in place. The clips and screws are concealed as the next plank is installed. Instead of using clips, you can staple the planks in place.

The planks are 3/8 inch thick. Add that to the depth of the two layers of furring strips to determine how much ceiling height the plank ceiling will take up. If the room has a ceiling light fixture or vent, plan to mount the electrical boxes so that they’re 3/8 inch lower than the furring strips. To prevent discoloration of the planks, choose a light fixture that will not raise the temperature of the planks above 230 degrees.

To install a laminated plank ceiling, follow these steps:

1. Decide which direction the ceiling joists run and snap a chalk line perpendicular to the joists every 16 inches across the ceiling.

   When you’re planning the job, think about the directions you want the planks to run. Keep in mind that the planks run opposite the direction of the furring strips they’re attached to.

2. Fasten a 1-x-3 furring strip to the ceiling along the chalk line, using 2 1/2-inch wood screws.

   Be sure to attach furring around the perimeter of the room. Use two nails or screws at each joist to keep the furring flat. When necessary, shim the furring strips to ensure a flat installation of the planks.

3. Repeat the process, installing another row of furring strips that crisscross the first row.

4. Find the width of the first row of planks by measuring the room in inches, parallel with the strips.

5. Divide that number by 5 (the width of the planks) to find out how many planks you need.

   For example, if the room measures 11 feet 4 inches, change it to 136 inches. Divide that amount by 5 inches and you get 27 planks with a remainder of 1 inch. Add 5 inches to the remaining 1 inch, which equals 6 inches. Divide 6 inches in half and get 3 inches. This is the width of the first row of planks. You will have 26 rows of full-width planks, with the first and last rows 3 inches wide.

6. Rip (cut lengthwise) the planks to the proper width for the first row.

   Be sure to cut off the tongue edge of the plank. If it’s a little rough, that’s okay because it will be covered by molding.

7. Decide the starting point for aligning the first row of planks by measuring from the starting wall at each end of the room and marking the distance equal to the width of the starting plank plus 1/2 inch.

8. Snap a chalk line on the marks so you’ll be able to align the planks.

9. Hold the first plank so that its grooved edge is on the chalk line and it’s about 1/2 inch away from the wall (so it can expand).

10. Insert one of the metal clips into the groove that’s milled in the edge of the plank and drive the screw into the furring strip.

11. Fasten the edge of the plank nearest the wall by screwing through the face of the plank.

12. Continue this process, putting one clip into each furring strip.

    As you proceed, make sure that all the end joints fit together tightly. Check that the tongue is fully seated in the groove and the ends butt tightly together.

13. To begin installing the full-width planks in the second and subsequent rows, choose random-length planks and stagger them.

    This arrangement creates the most natural and pleasing appearance. When necessary, cut the planks.

14. Continue this process, working your way across the ceiling and always screwing one metal clip at every furring strip.

15. Cut the last row of planks to width.

    They should be the same width as the first row (see Steps 4 and 5).

16. Slip them in place and screw through the faces of the planks as close to the wall as possible to secure them.

17. To finish the installation and conceal the gap around the perimeter of the ceiling, install molding.